Susan's Travel Blog

Dunedin OPERA

Written by Susan Wolfson | Mar 9, 2026 7:49:46 AM

Larnach Castle 

While the castle itself is a marvel of Victorian architecture, the Larnach Castle Gardens are the true soul of the estate. Recognized as a "Garden of International Significance," these grounds offer a curated journey through New Zealand’s botanical beauty.

OPERA Yellow Eyed Penguins and Blue Penguins

Dunedin isn't just the "Edinburgh of the South"—it’s arguably the wildlife capital of New Zealand. Our recent trek to the Otago Peninsula felt less like a sightseeing tour and more like stepping into a high-production nature documentary.

From the secluded beaches of the OPERA (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance) to the windswept cliffs of Taiaroa Head, here’s a look at the incredible locals we met.

The Rare and Remarkable: Yellow-Eyed Penguins

Our journey began at the OPERA penguin preserve. If you’re looking for the world’s rarest penguin, this is their sanctuary. The Hoiho (Yellow-eyed penguin) is famously shy, but the preserve’s clever system of hidden trenches allowed us to get an intimate look without disturbing them.

The Vibe: Seeing that distinct pale yellow band across their eyes is a "pinch-me" moment.

Fun Fact: Unlike most penguins, Hoiho are solitary nesters—they prefer a little backyard privacy over a crowded colony.  We were able to see several in the "hospital".  Check out the feet in the photo below. They are incredibly strong because they hop/climb up hills to their nests in the forest far up from the beach.

This video is of the very young Yellow-Eyed Penguins

In this video you can listen to their call

The Great "Fluff-Up": Molting Blue Penguins

​We caught the Kororā (Little Blue Penguins) at a very specific time in their life cycle: molting season. Instead of the famous evening "waddle" up the beach after a day of fishing, we found them tucked away, looking like oversized, disgruntled pom-poms.  We had a peak at one under a tree.

  • The Look: During a molt, these tiny birds lose all their feathers at once. They look twice their normal size because their new feathers are pushing out the old ones.
  • The Wait: Because they aren't waterproof during this time, they stay completely out of the water. It was a rare chance to see them during their "quiet phase," patiently waiting for their sleek blue coats to return.

The Sunbathers: New Zealand Fur Seals

Dotted along the rocky coastline, we spotted several Kekeno (New Zealand Fur Seals). Most were lazily draped over the rocks, blending in so perfectly with the landscape that you’d miss them if they didn't occasionally flip a flipper in the air.

Pro Tip: Keep your distance! They may look like sleepy logs, but they can move surprisingly fast when they want to.

The Giants of the Sky: Royal Albatross Centre

To top off the day, we headed to the very tip of the peninsula: Taiaroa Head. This is the only mainland breeding colony of Northern Royal Albatross in the world.

Watching a bird with a 9-10 ft wingspan catch the thermal drafts and glide effortlessly over the ocean is a humbling experience. They are the true kings of the Southern Ocean, spending most of their lives at sea before returning to these specific cliffs to raise their young.  We got a peak at a baby under it's mother. 

See the Albatross Soar